Strobe Portrait
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This is for those new to underwater photography who want to learn the basics of shooting decent pictures in this very different environment. Perhaps you've already given it a try and found that even though you take pretty good photos on land, the shots taken with your underwater camera come out terrible.
The typical problems experienced by those starting out are that their pictures tend to:
- Lack color and look mostly blue or bluegreen
- Be covered by white circles or dots that look like snow
- Be somewhat blurry and lack clarity
- Lack sharpness and contrast between subject and background
The good news is that these few tips will get you past some fundamental challenges to the point where you can start getting some fair shots and then you'll be ready to start fine tuning your skills with experimentation and practice.
Blue pictures are usually the result of not using a flash or using one from too far away. The problem is that water absorbs light very quickly starting with the warmer colors like reds and yellows going first. In fact red will disappear at around 12' to 15'. You'll have the best luck if you try and get within about 3' of your subject.
Remember too that the light from your flash has to travel to the subject and back to the lens, so if you're 5 feet away, the light has to travel 10' and the flash won't be very effective.
You should also remember from your diving instruction that water makes things look larger and closer. About 25% more to be precise. While it's true that the camera will "see" what you do in terms of size, it won't account for the longer distance. So if you're close to the edge of your effective flash range, that other 25% may be enough to blow the shot.
Interestingly enough the second problem, referred to as backscatter, results from using a flash. It's caused by the flash reflecting off tiny particles suspended in the water. It's generally from using the cameras internal flash which sits very close to the lens.
The solution is to utilize an external flash or strobe that can be positioned off to the side. That way the light gets reflected somewhere other than directly back into the camera lens. A diffuser may help as well to soften the light.
Blurry pictures are also generally the result of trying to shoot through too much water. Again, get closer to the subject. In fact, when starting out and trying to learn how to properly use a camera underwater, it's a good idea to focus on macro shots. Get good at those and then work outwards.
Because water is denser than air, it's harder to get the crispness or sharpness like when shooting on land. One solution is to get closer. This will help better define the contrast between whatever you're photographing and the background. While you can add a little contrast back in during post-processing on the computer, it's still better to try and get it right in the camera.
Perhaps you've noticed a common theme here, which is to get close and use an external strobe. It will also help to get low, like at eye-level with your subject and try to shoot slightly upwards.
In fact there's a mantra that says "get close, get low, shoot upwards, and use a strobe. If you're new to underwater photography, just employing these basic tips is likely to make a big difference in your results.
Find more tips for novices, shop for an underwater camera, or check out the camera reviews and more articles with tips on underwater photography on our website at http://www.underwatercamerasplus.com
How to use an entry level strobe kit for Portraits